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Arrive
in Kathmandu and transfer to the Courtyard Hotel in Thamel.
Arrangements will be made to have a pre-trek briefing, final
gear checklist, and group dinner. The remainder of the day will
be at your leisure to explore the streets, shops and pubs of
Thamel, a backpacker haven.
Day 2 Half Day Sightseeing –
Kathmandu Valley (1330m)
This morning a sightseeing tour will be arranged,
taking in the key attractions in and around Kathmandu. These
include Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupathinath and Durbar
Square. In the afternoon you have time to explore Kathmandu,
Patan, Bhaktapur and the lesser-known towns that dot the valley
on foot, by bicycle or trishaw. The area has an amazing range
of fascinating highlights, whatever our interest. Excellent
bookshops, extensive markets, and novelty and handicraft shops
contrast with fantastic centers of cultural and spiritual
significance. Kathmandu has more World Heritage sites than
any other city in the world.
Day 3 Drive to Besi Sahar - Trek to
Ngadi (900 m)
After an early morning departure from Kathmandu,
we’ll take five-hour private bus ride to the trailhead
at either Besi Sahar or to a point a bit further on depending
on road conditions. Today’s hike will be warm, but pleasant
as we traverse rice terraces and subtropical forests into
an area known as the “Middle Hills Region.” We’ll
cross several suspension bridges over the course of the day,
but the one at Bhulbhule is noticeably long. We will have
fantastic views of Manaslu today, at 8156 meters, it’s
the world’s eighth tallest. A gentle uphill will deliver
us to the lovely village of Ngadi, home of many picturesque
shops, cobbled streets and the teahouse in which we’ll
spend our first night in the Himalaya.
Day 4 Trek to Chamje (1450m)
From Ngadi we will climb to Bahundanda, which
literally means "hill of the Brahmins" and it is
the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marsyangdi Valley.
Our hike will likely be very warm as we approach Bahundanda,
situated high up on a ridge. The trail descending the village
is quite steep and crosses a stream at the bottom of a small
waterfall. As is often the case with trails in the mountains,
once you reach the bottom, it almost immediately climbs again
and this one traverses the hillside high above the river.
We’ll hike through the Marsyangdi Valley which forms
a steep V-shape and we will follow the winding mountain path
down through Syange, the unofficial end to the “Middle
Hills.” Outside Syange, the trail climbs steeply and
the path is cut into the sheer cliff-face some 200-300m above
the riverbed. We will pass through the village of Jagat and
will climb up through forested land to a fabulous waterfall
just before Chamje, our home for the night.
Day 5 Trek to Danagyu (2290m)
After descending to the river and crossing a
suspension bridge, we will begin a steep climb to some small
teahouses at Sattale. This is a nice place to stop for a drink
as the path will soon climb multiple switchbacks to the top
of the hill. Once at the top, the view is well worth the effort.
The view of Tal below us on a wide plain by the river is breathtaking
and will likely be one of your favorites on the trip. Tal
is enclosed by cliffs and surrounded by waterfalls and the
level ground preceding it is comforting after seeing the harrowing
mountain paths we’ll have just traveled. Beyond Tal
and the ACAP checkpost, the valley narrows and the path becomes
high and winding and in many areas is carved from the rock.
Beyond the small village of Karte, we will be welcomed by
more exposed trail walking before the path drops again to
the river. Many of the entrances to villages in this area
will be marked with elaborate chortens at each end, Dharapani’s
is no exception and it marks the strength of Tibetan influence
in the area. Upon leaving Karte, we enter the Dudh Khola ('milky
river') Valley, which originates from the south face of Manaslu.
The Marsyangdi will then veer to the left and Annapurna II
(the world’s 16th highest mountain) will become visible
ahead. We will pass through Bagarchhap and uphill to Danagyu,
a Tibetan village with prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.
After today’s hike, you’ll be glad to have reached
this place - the home to many apple and peach orchards.
Day 6 Trek to Bhratang (2840m)
Shortly after leaving Danagyu, we’ll pass
a spectacular waterfall, where we turn left and head up three
forested ridges to Koto. After an hour of lovely, open forests,
we reach a clearing at the top of the trail and a charming
Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for a break. From here,
we get another chance to look back at views of Manaslu. This
area is rich in culture and many local farmers certainly look
more Tibetan than Nepali. Corn, buckwheat, millet, barley
and potatoes are all raised in the region and there is enough
rain and warmth here to produce two crops a year. A casual
walk of slightly more than an hour brings us to the local
administrative center of the Manang District, Chame. From
here we are blessed with stunning views of both Annapurna
II and Annapurna IV. We’ll follow a mostly level path
through a huge apple orchard to Bhratang, where we’ll
rest for the night.
Day 7 Trek to Pisang (3200m)
It's a beautiful walk from Bhratang to Pisang,
through woods with wonderful views of the peaks soaring above
us. When the trail rounds a bend, we get our first view on
the jaw-dropping Paungda Danda rock face, a dramatic, curved
slab of rock standing 1500 meters above the river. Today’s
is a short day, so we'll have the afternoon in Pisang to explore
the village, with it's Tibetan mani stones and gompa, perhaps
taking a walk up to Upper Pisang for amazing views of Pisang
Peak, Annapurna II and Annapurna III.
Day 8 Trek thru Ngawal - the High Route
- to Manang (3500m)
Today's trail is one of the most scenic along
the Annapurna route and is one seldom taken. We start the
morning with a steep ascent to Upper Pisang and another longer
and steeper one to Gyaru, an old, atmospheric village just
off the main Annapurna trail. Another two or three hours brings
us to Ngawal - it's a spectacular hike, during which we really
feel that we are heading up into the mountains. Ngawal is
a wonderful, old village of cobbled streets, prayer wheels,
decorative water-spouts and beautiful architecture and was
obviously a hub of religious activity in previous times. We’ll
be sure to stop in here for a nice lunch before continuing
back out on the trail toward incredible Braga.
Braga is an old Tibetan-style village of about
150 partially deserted houses. We will have time to explore
the historic village, with its large, old gompa perched colorfully
above the stacked houses. The gompa has an elaborate collection
of thangkas and statues estimated to be up to 500 years old.
Braga also has an impressive collection of traditional architectural
details, so keep your eyes open for beautifully carved wooden
windows and doors. The prayer wheels and chorten at the foot
of Braga are fantastically painted.
From here it’s a short walk past a series
of unique and colorful chortens to Manang, a village of 500
or so flat-roofed houses and the headquarters for the region.
Manang is an interesting village packed with trekkers, bakeries
and lodges. The village is dominated by high peaks - Annapurna
III and Gangapurna tower over it and a dramatic icefall sits
just across the river. There is an old gompa on the edge of
town, many local teahouses, some winding streets worth getting
lost on and an opportunity or two to sample some of the local
chhang and rakshi. There is a 3 o'clock lecture on altitude
by the Himalayan Rescue Association for anyone interested.
Day 9 Rest Day in Manang (3500m)
Today is our acclimatization day, with lots
of options; a long day-hike to the Ice Lake, a visit to the
'Hundred Rupee Lama' at the cave gompa above Manang, a two-hour
hike to Milarepa's cave across the river from Braga, the HRA
talk, or a tour of Manang's many bakeries. Manang is also
the place to buy a yak head, if you’re so inclined,
so… A hike up 300 meters or so for acclimatization is
recommended, but nothing too strenuous is required. Our guest
house will be a sunny and warm place to gaze at the peaks
in the afternoon.
Day 10 Trek to Letdar (4300m)
Today’s not a long day, but we gain some
serious altitude, so we will concentrate on taking it slowly.
En route, we will undoubtedly be passed along the trail by
galloping Manangi horses, saddled with wonderful (and expensive)
Tibetan wool saddle blankets, with bells jingling as they
gallop by. We will have left the land of trees below now and
will be hiking through only scrub juniper and alpine grasses
from this point to the Thorong La. We climb past Tengi and
Gunsang to Yak Kharka, and then in another hour we’ll
arrive in Letdar, where we stay at an alpine-style guest house
with continued spectacular views.
Day 11 Trek to Thorung Phedi High Camp
(4700m)
An easy two or three hour walk will get us up
to the Thorung La Base Camp Hotel at Thorung Phedi, where
we will stop for an early lunch…think light lunch, because
it’s another hour or so hiking straight up that gets
us to the lodge at High Camp, where we will plan to stay the
night. The idea is to get to bed early in preparation for
an early morning start the next day – high pass day!
If someone in the group is having altitude issues, we can
spend the night at the lower-down Thorung Phedi Base Camp
Hotel, as it too is a nice spot to spend the afternoon. What
this will mean is that we’ll have an earlier departure
the next morning and that the next day will be slightly longer.
Day 12 Trek to Muktinath (3800m)
We’ll be up early for the three or four
hour walk to the top of the Thorung La at 5416m, where we’ll
be treated with spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding
peaks. The descent is as demanding as is the ascent to the
top of the pass, so we’ll all appreciate a cup of chai
and a snack at a local tea house at Chabarbu, at the bottom
of the descent. From there, we’ll hike another 1-1/2
hours to lower Mustang, which we have actually reached just
after the pass, and to the serene temple complex of Muktinath.
Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for
Buddhists and Hindus alike and is situated in a tranquil grove
of trees. The village contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in
the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai
temple houses a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled
Vishnu Mandir all make up the auspicious combination of earth,
fire and water. We will stay just five minutes down the trail
from Muktinath at Ranipauwa.
Day 13 Trek to Kagbeni (2800m)
This morning we’ll trek along a wonderful trail through
more Mustangi villages, where we will feast on delicious apples
and see the traditional back-loom weaving techniques being
practiced by local women. Half an hour down the trail, Jharkot
is an old Mustangi village with a mystical, medieval feel
to it. It contains a Shakya gompa which is a traditional medicine
center and incredibly photogenic whitewashed houses and streets.
Further along the trail at Khingar, we might stop in for a
visit at the local school. The scenery here is truly wonderful
with soft lighting, patchworks of fields, peaks overhead,
villagers out plowing the fields, horses tethered next to
the houses and apple trees providing texture to the landscape.
After a steep descent, we will reach the windy Kali Gandaki
(called the Thak Khola by the locals) river valley where it
intersects the Jhong Khola and the last village in lower Mustang,
the oasis of Kagbeni. Here mud-packed houses, prayer wheels,
narrow, stone streets, covered alleyways, chortens and an
old brick-hued gompa dominate the village and guard the river
intersection. Kagbeni is reminiscent of old Mustang and those
who want to venture further can wander across the river to
Mustangi villages officially "off limits" but easily
accessible.
Day 14 Trek to Jomsom (2680m)
We’ll have a nice morning's walk down
the Kali Gandaki riverbed, looking for saligrams along the
way, to Jomsom, the administrative center for the region.
The Kali Gandaki valley gets incredibly windy in the early
afternoon, so it’s important for us to arrive before
noon. It is from here that we’ll hope to catch a flight
back to Pokhara tomorrow. Again, the valley gets incredibly
windy and we will hope for divine intervention in order to
get our flight out on time tomorrow. Jomsom is a wonderful
place to call an end to the trekking part of our trip and
you can be sure we’ll have a beer or two here with dinner.
Day 15 Fly to Pokhara (850m)
We will hope to catch our short, early morning
flight back to Pokhara, a lovely shoreside village on gorgeous
Phewa Lake. From Pokhara, 6997 meter Machhupuchhare looms
very large over the landscape. We’ll spend the day taking
in the sights and shopping and the night in a nice guest house
with hot showers. We’ll get a meal at a good restaurant
where the beers are really cold, the food delicious and the
atmosphere great.
Day 16 Fly to Kathmandu (1330m)
We will wake very early and catch the first
flight out of Pokhara. We should arrive back to our hotel
in Kathmandu by noon and have the remainder of the day to
relax, shop, whatever. We’ll plan to have a group celebration
dinner at a local Thamel eatery.
Day 17 Kathmandu/Bangkok
Most flights leave Kathmandu around 2pm, so
if there’s last-minute gift shopping to do, do so early
in the day. We’ll head to the airport around 11am. The
flight to Bangkok takes about 3-1/2 hours - our overnight
layover in Bangkok will give you the opportunity to take in
a round of kickboxing, view the unusual sights on Patpong
Rd or just relax with a Thai massage. We will have an early
morning departure flight back to the States.
Day 18 Arrive in USA
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